Buying a Used Car Checklist

Use this used car checklist to review the history report, inspect the car, check for water damage, test drive it, and avoid a lemon before you buy.

Buying a Used Car

You do not have to be a mechanic to catch many of the problems that make a used car a bad buy. You need a plan, a little patience, and a willingness to walk away. This checklist walks through what to research, what to inspect, how to test drive, and what to confirm before you sign.

Rules for used car sales, including what a dealer must disclose and what protections you have after the sale, vary by state. Check with your state’s attorney general or motor vehicle agency for the rules where you live.

Estimate in a garage for the annual inspection of the car

The Short Version

  • 1
    Set a budget and make a shortlist of models.
  • 2
    Research each model’s common problems, recalls, and fair price.
  • 3
    Find out what coverage, if any, comes with the car.
  • 4
    Get a vehicle history report.
  • 5
    Inspect the outside, under the hood, and the interior.
  • 6
    Check for signs of water damage.
  • 7
    Take a thorough test drive.
  • 8
    Have an independent mechanic inspect the car.
  • 9
    Check the seller, the price, and the paperwork before you sign.

Step 1: Set a Budget and Build a Shortlist

Decide what you can afford before you start looking, so a nice car does not talk you into overspending. Include more than the price: taxes, title and registration fees, insurance, and a cushion for repairs or maintenance the car may need soon.

Then write down what you need and want, such as mileage range, model years, seating, fuel economy, and technology, and narrow the field to a few models that fit your budget.

Consider a Certified Pre-Owned Car

Many manufacturers and dealers sell certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicles that have passed an inspection and may come with added coverage or benefits. What a CPO label includes depends on who certifies the car, so ask for the program details in writing and read what is and is not covered before you pay a premium for it.

Step 2: Research the Model, the Price, and Recalls

Before you see a car in person, learn what to look for on that specific model.

  • Search for common problems and owner reviews for the model and year. Knowing a model’s typical trouble spots tells you what to check on the test drive.
  • Look up open safety recalls using the VIN on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s recall lookup. Ask the seller whether recall repairs were completed.

  • Compare asking prices for similar cars in your area. Valuation tools such as Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds estimate value from year, model, trim, mileage, and condition

  • Remember that condition and service history affect whether a price is fair, not just mileage and year.

Step 3: Find Out What Coverage Comes With the Car

Before you buy, ask whether the car still has any of the following and whether it passes to a new owner

Manufacturer warranty.

Some of the original factory coverage may remain, depending on the car’s age and mileage. Ask the manufacturer or a dealer whether any remaining coverage transfers to a subsequent owner and whether any transfer requirements apply.

A vehicle protection plan or service contract.

If the seller bought one, read the contract to see whether it can be transferred and under what terms.

A The FTC Buyers Guide.

Dealers are generally required to display a Buyer’s Guide on each used car they sell. It states whether the car comes with a warranty or is sold “as is,” meaning you pay for any repairs after the sale. Some states limit “as is” sales, so check the rules where you live.

A car with no coverage in place is not a bad choice by itself, but it means you should be more careful with the inspection steps below.

Step 4: Get a Vehicle History Report

A history report is built from the car’s VIN. Services such as CarFax and AutoCheck compile records from many sources. Dealers often provide a report for cars on their lot. If the seller does not, you can buy one yourself. A report may show:
  • Accident and structural damage records.
  • Flood or water damage and salvage or other title brands.
  • Liens against the vehicle.
  • How the car was used, such as personal, rental, taxi, lease, or company use.
  • Odometer readings and signs of rollback.
  • The number of previous owners.
  • Airbag deployments, recalls, and reported service.

A clean report is not a clean bill of health. Not every accident is reported, and not every repair is documented. Use the report to rule cars out, and still inspect the car and have a mechanic look at it.

Step 5: Inspect the Car Yourself

Look at the car in daylight and on level ground, and give yourself time. A seller who rushes you is giving you information too.

Exterior

  • Walk around the car and look at the overall condition and how well it has been kept.
  • Check for scratches, dents, and rust. Heavy rust on the body can mean the brake lines, fuel lines, and other parts underneath are corroded too.
  • Look for signs of past repairs: mismatched paint color or texture, overspray on trim or rubber seals, tape lines, ripples, sanding marks, runs, or peeling.
  • Ask whether the car has had frame or structural damage and whether repairs were done by a qualified shop. A magnet will stick to steel but not to thick body filler, which can help you find repaired areas, but a mechanic can tell you more.
  • Check the tires for even tread depth and uneven wear, which can point to alignment or suspension problems.
  • Look under the car and in the spot where it was parked for fresh leaks. The color of a puddle gives a clue: dark brown or black is often engine oil, green or orange is often coolant, and red or pink is often transmission or power steering fluid. A mechanic can confirm.

Under the Hood and the Engine

  • Look for oil and coolant leaks, and notice any burnt smell when you open the hood.
  • Check the oil dipstick for level and color. Oil that is gritty, milky, or very dark deserves a question. Look under the oil cap for sludge.
  • Ask for service records showing regular oil changes and maintenance.
  • Check the battery terminals for looseness, dirt, or corrosion.
  • Inspect hoses and belts for cracking, fraying, leaks, or looseness.
  • Start the engine cold if you can. It should start easily and idle smoothly. Visible exhaust smoke after startup is a reason to ask questions: blue smoke can point to burning oil, and black smoke can point to too much fuel.

Transmission

Automatic:

the fluid should look clean and be at the proper level. A burnt smell, low level, or dirty color can point to an internal problem. The car should shift into drive without jerking or lunging, and shifting smoothly through the gears as it accelerates. Slow or rough shifting can be a sign of low fluid, leaks, wear, or neglect.

Manual:

the clutch should not slip, stick, or smell of burning. Gears should shift without grinding, jerking, or shuddering, and the clutch and brake pedals should have normal resistance.

Interior and Electronics

  • Check seats, carpet, and headliner for tears, stains, burns, or heavy wear, and ask whether the wear matches the mileage on the odometer.
  • Test every seat belt, door, hood, and trunk release, along with the locks and windows, both power and manual.
  • Check the wipers, lights, turn signals, horn, heat, air conditioning, cruise control, audio system, and any screens or connections such as USB and Bluetooth.
  • Watch the dashboard when you start the car. Warning lights should come on briefly and then go out. A light that stays on, such as the check engine or ABS light, needs an explanation.
  • Ask about airbag deployments and, if there was one, how the airbag and the surrounding parts were replaced.
  • Confirm the spare tire and tools are present and in good condition.
  • Notice any smell. A musty odor can mean a leak or water damage, and heavy air freshener or smoke odor may be covering something.

Step 6: Check for Water Damage

Water damage can be hard to spot because floodwater leaves lasting problems that may not show up for weeks or months, especially in the electrical system. Some sellers clean up a car to hide the evidence, so check several areas rather than relying on one sign.

  • Smell the cabin. A musty or moldy smell can mean wet carpet or upholstery. Be wary of a strong air freshener. If you can, remove it, close the doors and windows for 10 to 15 minutes, and smell again. Check under the seats, in the trunk, and around the spare tire well for mold or mildew.
  • Look for water lines and stains. Check the trunk, wheel wells, and inside the headlights and brake lights for lines that show how high the water reached. Look for watermarks or faded spots on upholstery, carpet, and the dashboard.
  • Check for dampness. Peel back the carpet and feel for moisture, and check the glove box, the trunk, and under the seats. Moisture beads inside headlights, taillights, or the instrument panel can also signal water.
  • Look for rust where it should not be. Check screw heads, seat tracks and bolts, door hinges, trunk latches, and hood springs, and use a mirror to look under the seats and under the carpet near the pedals and spare tire.
  • Look for silt and debris. Floodwater leaves mud and sand in places a detailer may miss, such as seat tracks, the glove box, under the dashboard, in wheel wells, and under the hood.
  • Question new or mismatched interior parts. Loose-fitting carpet, carpet that does not match the upholstery, or sections of different color deserve an explanation from the seller.
  • Test the electrical systems. Electrical trouble is a common and costly result of water damage. Check the warning lights, heat and air conditioning, cruise control, wipers, lights, turn signals, and radio. Listen for buzzing and watch for smoke or burning smells. Test features such as four-wheel drive, ABS, and traction control. If you are allowed to look under the dashboard, brittle or stiff wiring is a warning sign.
  • Check the history report and title. Flood or salvage branding may show up there, though not every flooded car is reported.
  • Have a mechanic inspect it. A shop has the tools to remove wheels, run diagnostics, and look at parts you cannot reach.

If something looks suspicious, ask about it. If the answers do not satisfy you, walk away.

Step 7: Take a Test Drive

A test drive tells you things a walkaround cannot. Plan a drive that includes city streets, a highway, and, if possible, a hill and a rough road. Turn the radio off so you can listen.

  • 1

    Starting: the car should start easily and run smoothly without rough noise or smoke.

  • 2
    Acceleration and shifting: power should come on smoothly, without hesitation, jerking, or lunging. Rough shifting or delayed engagement can point to transmission problems.
  • 3
    Steering and tracking: the steering should feel responsive, and the wheel should be centered when you drive straight. A car that pulls to one side may have alignment, tire, or brake problems.
  • 4
    Brakes: Listen for squealing or grinding and feel for grabbing, pulsing, or a soft pedal. The car should stop in a straight line
  • 5
    Suspension and noise: knocking, creaking, popping, swaying, or bouncing can mean suspension work is needed. Loud humming or grinding can point to worn bearings.
  • 6
    Comfort and fit: check visibility, blind spots, legroom, seat comfort, and noise at highway speed. You will live with these every day.
  • 7
    Systems: confirm that the odometer, gauges, warning lights, air conditioning, heat, and audio all work while you drive.

For a printable version of the test drive steps, see our test drive checklist.

Buying a Car Without a Test Drive

Buying a Car Without a Test Drive Sometimes a test drive is hard to arrange. You may be buying from out of town, another buyer may be waiting, or the seller is someone you know. Skipping it is a real risk. A car can look fine and still have problems that only show up on the road, and visual checks cannot tell you how the engine, transmission, and brakes behave or whether the car is comfortable for you.

If you cannot drive the car yourself, reduce the risk:

  • Pay an independent mechanic or inspection service near the car to inspect it and drive it for you, and ask for a written report.
  • Get the history report and service records before you commit.
  • Ask for a live video walkaround that shows the cold start, the dashboard, the underside, and the tires.
  • Read the return policy, the Buyer’s Guide, and any warranty terms in writing before you pay.

A seller who refuses to let you test drive the car is a warning sign. Some sellers will ride along or hold your driver’s license while you drive, which is reasonable. A flat refusal is a reason to reconsider.

Step 8: Get an Independent Inspection

Ask a mechanic you trust, not one the seller picks, to look at the car. A shop can put the car on a lift and check the engine, transmission, brakes, steering, suspension, tires, and underbody for leaks, rust, worn parts, and signs of previous repairs. You pay a fee for the inspection, but it can save you from a costly mistake or give you facts to negotiate with.

If a seller will not allow an independent inspection, consider that a reason to decline the purchase.

How to Avoid Buying a Lemon

A “lemon” is a car with serious defects that keep coming back or that make it unreliable or unsafe. You cannot remove all risk, but you can reduce it by doing most of the steps above and a few more:

  • Get the history report and check the title. Look for repair, accident, and service history, and for title brands.
  • Test drive the car and listen for anything unusual during acceleration and braking. Check the electrical features.
  • Have a mechanic inspect it. Mechanics find leaking gaskets and hoses, rust damage, brake and steering problems, and other issues owners miss.
  • Look over the inside and outside for worn, frayed, chipped, oxidized, or corroded parts.
  • Check what coverage comes with the car, using the Buyer’s Guide for dealer sales.
  • Look up open recalls by VIN and ask whether the work was completed.
  • Check the seller’s reputation through people you know, online reviews, and complaint records such as the Better Business Bureau. A pattern of complaints is a warning.

Take your time. A deal that has to be decided today is rarely a deal you need to make.

Step 9: Check the Seller, the Price, and the Paperwork

Choose the seller carefully.

Look for a dealer with a good reputation and recent reviews, and be extra careful with private sales that have little documentation.

Check the title.

The name and vehicle information on the title should match the seller and the car, and the VIN on the car should match the VIN on the title and the history report. Ask whether there is a lien.

Check the price.

Compare it with similar cars and with a valuation tool, and consider what the condition and records justify.

Ask what happens after the sale.

Find out what service, return, or warranty options exist and how to reach the seller later.

Get it in writing.

Repair promises, fees, and any coverage terms belong in the paperwork, not just in conversation.

Ask for records.

Request service records, the owner’s manual, a spare key, and proof that recall work was done.

Read before you sign.

Review every document, including add-ons and fees, and ask about anything you do not understand.

Protecting Yourself After You Buy

Even a carefully inspected used car can need repairs. If the car has no coverage left, you may want to look at a vehicle protection plan (VPP), also called a vehicle service contract (VSC). People often call these an “extended warranty,” but a VPP or VSC is a contract, not a warranty. The contract states which repairs are covered and which are not, and it is the document that controls. In California, autopom! offers mechanical breakdown insurance (MBI), which is a different legal product from a service contract.

Before you buy any plan, read the contract for what is covered and excluded, how to request repair authorization, which repair facilities you may use, the cost, and the cancellation terms. Whether a plan is available for a particular used car depends on its year, model, mileage, and the state where it is located.

To see what is available for your car, request a quote with your vehicle’s year, make, model, mileage, and state.

For more detail on coverage for older cars, see our guide to an extended warranty for a used car.

Printable Used Car Checklist

Take the checklist with you when you look at a car. It follows the steps above. Download the Used Car Buying Checklist (PDF).

Frequently Asked Questions

Start with the vehicle history report and the title. They can rule out cars with serious problems before you spend time on an inspection. Then inspect the car, take a test drive, and have an independent mechanic look at it.
No. A report only includes what was reported. Not every accident is reported and not every repair is documented, so use the report together with your own inspection and a mechanic’s inspection.
Look for a musty smell, water lines or stains, dampness under the carpet, rust in unusual places such as seat bolts and hinges, silt or debris in hidden areas, and electrical problems. Check the history report and title for flood or salvage branding, and have a mechanic inspect the car.
It is not recommended. A test drive shows how the car runs, shifts, stops, and feels. If you cannot drive it yourself, have an independent mechanic inspect and drive it, and get the report in writing.
Treat that as a reason to walk away. A seller with nothing to hide should allow an inspection at a reasonable time and place.
It depends on the state. Lemon laws and other used-car protections vary, and protections for used vehicles may be more limited than those for new vehicles. Some states also restrict when or how a used vehicle may be sold “as is.” Check with your state attorney general’s office or consumer protection agency for the rules where you live.
It depends on the manufacturer’s terms and the car’s age and mileage. Ask the manufacturer or a dealer before you buy, and get the answer in writing.
Possibly. Availability depends on the car’s year, model, mileage, and the state where it is located, so the best way to find out is to request a quote with those details.
No. A vehicle protection plan or vehicle service contract is a contract that lists what repairs it covers. A warranty is a promise included with the product. The contract you receive controls what is covered, and in California the product is mechanical breakdown insurance.

Related Reading

Test Drive Checklist
Car Checklists for Buying and Selling
Extended Warranty for a Used Car
Car Maintenance Schedule
Vehicle Protection Plan

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